THE SNOWIES
THE FACES AND ROUTES 2
FACES AND ROUTES 2
The DIAMOND:
This formation is about 900 feet from bottom
to top and offers superb, long routes. Alpine
climbing at
a higher level. It is suggested that you stay clear o
f the lower center of
the formation (shown in orange). As seen in the photo on the right, there was a major rockfall that took out
several good routes in the early spring of '99, and considerable loose rock remains situated in precarious
locations. (More will be added to route descriptions soon.) Descent
is by 1.) the MBPT, 2.) the Diamond Gully after melt out or 3.) other
alternatives.
1.) Red Spot Variant, 5.6. A variant of an older, popular route which intersects the left side of the red-colored rock 'spot' and goes to the diagonal ledge. P1: From the Red Spot Pedestal, climb an easy crack to a ledge at the bottom left of the Red Spot. P2: Skirt the left edge of the Red Spot, belay at the top of a right facing dihedral. P3: Cut right under a roof to the Diagonal Ledge.
The Arrow indicates the "Davis Chimney", 5.7, an older route and an easier way to the top of the Central Pillar. WARNING! Watch out for loose rock in here, especially after meltout and first half of the climbing season!! This is nasty territory! Belay the first pitch from the left side of the bottom of the main crack to avoid being hit by rockfall. Merges with the Diamond Central at second pitch.
2.) Diamond Central, 5.9+. A great way to access the Diagonal Ledge. P1: Begins on the lower right face of the Central Pillar and jogs left into a crack line that goes all the way to the top of the pillar (with 60 M ropes). Scanty pro here!! P2: Move up and left, aiming for a large right facing dihedral about 100 feet above. Belay to the left of a large 'cave'. P3: Climb up to the Diagonal Ledge and set belay. Consider continuing on the Diamond Express or the Overhang Routes.
3.) Roofs Left, 9+.
4.) Roofs Center, 10b.
5.) Roofs Right,
10a.
6.) The Diamond Express, 9+, 10a. A variety of lines depart the Diagonal Ledge for the summit.
a. 2 pitches. (See shot to the right, Jeb Steward linking A to C on an incredible, windless, warm blue day!!) P1:
b. 2 pitches.
c. 2
pitches.
7.) Overhanging Endeavors, 10c.
a. 3 pitches. See shot to the right, Rob Kepley on a particularly steep section up high.....
b. 3 pitches.
8.) Here's to the Hardmen, 10c. Three long pitches.
PILLAR BUTTRESS:
One of the highest, most remote
formations accessible less than 2 months per year because of heavy
snowpack, falling rock and weather. Only 3 lines exist here at present on
the major pillar, the "Petite Marie". It is wild up here, and more route potential exists!
1.)
2.)
3.)
Photo number 1 is a closer view of the formation - the arrow points to "Petite Marie", the largest, easternmost pillar (Photo: Jeff Flake en glissade). Photo number 2 (thanks to Jeff Flake) is yours truly two easy 'approach pitches' up "Petite Marie" at an approximate elevation of 11,300'. NOTE: Three lines continue from this belay. Photo number 3 is taken from the top of the entire formation looking straight down towards the base of the columns and shows the entire 4 pitches up the columns.
Route 1 is 'face', thin at times, and goes at about 10a - take wires and all cams to #3.
Route 2 is hands to the roof and continues above at a max of 10b - take all cams to #3 and doubles from 1 to3.
Route 3 Same description as Route 2 except it goes harder, about 10c/d. Each of these lines can be done from this spot in one long pitch with 60 meter ropes.
Descents: Walk off from the top down the MBPT, down either First or Second Streets after meltout, or downclimb the southern exposure of Pillar Buttress to the left of the columns.
WARNING ! Be cautious as the rock is friable in many locations, freeze-thawing takes place nearly every night at this altitude and these lines do not see many ascents!
SUNDIAL SLAB:
This formation offers two long, moderate routes
at present, however considerable 
route
potential exists here. A tundra field separates the two lower slabs from
the upper ones and steep couloirs bound each side of the formation. For
descent, use either 1.) the Med Bow Peak Trail or 2.) scramble down the Second
Street Couloir after melt out.
1.) Long Haul, 5.8. Up to 8 pitches of great moderate climbing. Two variants, A and B after the third pitch add variety. You can exit at University Avenue should the weather threaten.
2.) Middle Cut, 5.7. This five pitch climb is a 'gusher' until August when the ground above is melted out. Its a cool, highly variable climb at a recreational grade with step-like terraces, abbreviated faces leading to University Avenue. Take the upper pitches of Long Haul to get to the top.
TRIANGLE BUTTRESS: Pretty manky. Good area near the base, but short routes. Most areas of well-consolidated rock are scattered.
OLD MAIN: Might be worth some effort. Again, most well-consolidated rock is scattered. Several steep gullies run from top to bottom. Some find these adventurous, but not serious technical climbing.
*I'm hearing that several routes are going in here, and that there are a couple of long routes on the far east end - as of 7-'02. I have no details as of now, but will attempt to find out what's going on.....
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