C U B A    CLIMBING   1 

El Palanque Wall,   Cuba Libre,  and the   Flyin' Hyena Wall

G e n e r a l    L o c a t i o n

The first map indicates where Vinales is relative to Havana, approximately 60 miles west.  The photograph on the preceeding page ("CUBA", click 'up') shows the Valle de Vinales and the quaint little village of Vinales, as well as the Mogotes that surround the town.  The arrow shows the location of the climbs outside of town near the El Palanque caves.  What a beautiful, laid back, peaceful little place this is (usually ... until an impromtu rag tag band at the local watering hole cranks up after dark!!).  The second map is a diagrammatic view of the  Valle de Vinales, showing the major Mogotes that surround the town:  1.) Mogote del Valle, 2.) Sierra de Vinales  , 3.) Sierra de San Miguel and 4.) Sierra de Galeras.  It also indicates the approximate locations of the routes:  A.) Cuba Libre,  B.) several routes on the El Palanque Wall such as Allez-Allez-Allez, Confiscado, etc. and Mr. Magote, and C.) the Flyin' Hyena Wall.

The  "E l    P a l a n q u e   W a l l"

( 5 climbs )

If one were standing near the entrance to the El Palanque Cavern and looking back towards the main road (ie looking roughly east), you would be looking at the Sierra San Miguel Mogote and directly at the El Palanque Wall.  We took an entire day to clear out the jungle-like growth next to the wall, so the base of the routes is readily accessible.  Each route is one pitch, roughly 60 - 70 feet in height, and can be rapped with a standard 50 meter rope from top anchors.  The topo shows the routes on the wall left to right.  1.) Friendship, 9+/10a, 10 bolts (joins Confiscado at the 6th bolt), 2.) Confiscado, 11a/b, 10 bolts,  3.) Allez-Allez-Allez, 11a, 6 bolts, 4.) Mi Amore, 11a/b, 6 bolts with trad pro below the shelf, and 5.) Classica, 10c, *NOTE: trad!  Double Fixe Ring rap anchors (indicated by asterisks) are at the tops of the routes except #5 which has one ring and a thread.  The first shot below is Viti "pulling down" on Allez, the second is a topo of the El Palanque Wall, and the third is a shot of yours truly doing early work on Confiscado.  (Thanks to Craig Luebben for the two photos shown here.) 

"C u ba    L i b r e",  11d,  85 M

Cuba Libre, also the namesake of a very popular, mind-bending Cuban drink, is climbing on 'frozen' flowstone drippings in its ultimate form, a triple decker topped off with a cherry of a roof some 300+ feet off the deck.  Try this one on for a real rush.  It is found on the west side of the Vinales road about 100 yards uphill (south) from the El Palanque Taverna.  The first pitch is recreational 9, the second pitch is 10b/c because of a dicey traverse, while the third pitch is one incredible offwidth, jam-crack roof extending about 20 feet up and out at a 35 degree angle.  There are some 'cut loose' moves that must be negotiated in order to make it all the way out this crack.  Be prepared for some rather gymnastic movements in a very exposed position!!   *Set up for a 250 foot lower by your belayer!  Think about this BEFORE you climb this route!  *CAUTION:  it is imperative that your belayer know how to pass a knot thru their belay device in order to get you all the way down! 

" The   F l y i n'    H y e n a    W a l l "

 ( 4 climbs )

This superb, huge wall is located on the north wall of the Sierra San Galeras Mogote about 2.5 miles past the El Palanque Taverna in a large, 300 foot high cathedral-like cavity.  There is a rather primitive lumber yard at its base.  Super climbs are located here and it's always in the shade!

  A  GREAT  PLACE  WHEN  BOTH   YOU  

AND  THE DAY  ARE  HOT  HOT  HOT !!

1.)  Flyin' Hyena (A) has 5 pitches, each with a bolted belay.  Pitch one (5.8) is trad and has one bolt near the belay.  Pitch 2 (5.8) has 6 bolts and the rap out is 40 meters from here.  Pitch 3 (11b) has 7 bolts and it's 60 meters to the ground from the P3 belay.  Pitch 4 (11d/12a) has 7 bolts and pitch 5 (11) has 8 bolts.   Pitches 1 and 2, as well as pitches 4 and 5, can be linked, although you are cautioned to think this through very completely before attempting it.

2.)  Have a Cigar (B) has four pitches, 12c/d, 11, and 11c, bolted.

3.)  Pablo's Squirm Fest (C) has three pitches, mostly 10c/d with some more difficult moves near the finish, bolted.

4.)  Wish You Were Here (D) has three pitches, mostly 10 c/d, bottom two are bolted  and top pitch is 'mixed' 5.11.

ADDITIONAL   INFORMATION

Today ('03) the climbing scene in Cuba is maturing from its infancy in '97 and '98 when we were first discovering how vast the potential was.  There are now over 130 routes in and around the Vinales Valley.  Travel from the US is even legal under certain circumstances.  Climbers from America and other foreign countries are traveling to Cuba for the novel climbing adventures found there, as well as the very unique cultural experiences.  It is extremely gratifying to see how much can be accomplished when others take hold of original dreams, drive, energy and spirit and carry them forward with enthusiasm.  There is no doubt it has benefited the sport of climbing in Cuba and many Cubans as well.  What is disheartening in an enterprise such as this, however, is when these certain individuals forget the origins of their cause, conveniently or otherwise.  There are some that won't forget.  Enough said at present.  To find details of how far the sport of climbing has progressed in Cuba, for more current topos and beta, travel information and more, go to cubaclimbing.com .      

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