CLIMBING ON CAYMAN BRAC - 2
Climbing on Brac 2
Remember, Ti = Titanium Hangers!
B.) The North Wall Areas
Wall of Early Morning Flight is probably reached most easily from Northeast Point. Take the Lighthouse Footpath as it curves westward and parallels the north bluff rim towards the Spot Bay area. Pass the No Problem Mon cairn and continue about another 150 yards until the trail comes to within 50 feet or so of the Bluff edge. There is a red painted DOS Marker near the Bluff edge at this site which also marks the location of these climbs. These are sporty climbs on highly pocketed, steep terrain.
1.) Turtles all the Way Down, 11d, 1/9/2.
2.) Neon Goby, 12a, 2/17/2.
3.) Tune-A-Fish, 12+, 2/15/2.
4.) Hot Tuna, 12a, 2/8/2.
5.) Chicken of the Sea,
12a, 2/10/2. Ti *The
shot at left is Jeff Elison just past the crux of this climb ... pretty huh ?
6.) Spineless, 11d, 2/13/2. Ti, T
7.) Wholy Huecos batwoman, 10c, 12/14/2. Ti
The No Problem Mon
Area is about 150 yards past
the Northeast Point climbs. It is marked by a cairn and a large red arrow
painted in the middle of the trail. Follow the faint trail to the
rim. These climbs, also seen on the route topo, are of moderate difficulty and a good place to get used
to climbing on the bluff wall over the sea. Lots of exposure. Shot
at left is Mike Auldridge gunning up Blackbeard's Revenge. Rap
down to the big ledge and climb out. Routes are shown on the topo above
and numbered L to R facing the
sea.
1.) No Problem Mon, 10a, 2/9/2. Superb, exposed arete at a moderate grade. Ti, T
2.) Porpoise Christy,
11b, 2/4/2. Hard pulling start to #1. You can rap in from the NPM
ledge. Ti
3.) Walkin' the Plank, 10c, 2/13/2. Three consecutive cruxes makes it interesting. Photo is Vance White on this route. Ti, T
4.) Blackbeard's Revenge, 10d, 2/9/2. Lots of pockets, duos, edges and side pulls. Ti
The Northeast Point
is
the most concentrated area of great sea cliff climbs on the island as seen on
the 
route topo above. These
are all cliff routes and you have to rap down to the bottom anchors to climb the
routes. *NOTE:
Routes numbered from R to L facing the sea, primarily because the exact
Northeast Point and the climb associated with it is the easiest to locate.
Routes progress westward along the wall from there. Take the Lighthouse
Footpath north from the light towers at the east terminus of Major Donald
Drive. Just when the trail begins to bear left or westward, about 75 paces
along the trail, traverse right over the nasty rock to the bluff edge and you
will be very near the Northeast Point.
1.) What's the Point, 5.9+, 2/13/2. George Bracksieck's creation, he wanted 'The Point'! Long and recreational. Ti, T
2.) SOS, 12a, 2/10/2. Sustained, steep and reachy, but big holds (sometimes).
3.) Pillage and Plunder, 11b, 2/13/2.
Steep, thin and reachy. Shot to right shows Luebben firing up this route,
its also sort of SHARP. Be prepared.
4.) Freedom, 12c, 2/17/2. Three 5.12 cruxes, go for it. Ti, T
5.) Throwin' the Tortuga, 11b, 2/11/2. Throws and pulling huecos to an airy arete. Ti, T
6.) A Porcupine named Flipper, 11c, 2/10/2.
7.) Habeus Porpoise, 12a/b, 2/3/2. Direct start to #6. Traverses westward, then up on smooth rock.
8.) Renegade, 11d, 2/13/2. Shares top anchors and last bolt with #6. T
9.) M Divin', 10d, 2/11/1.
10.) The Devil Wears Flippers, 11a, 2/16/2. Sharp, sustained and hidden holds. Ti
11.) Spermy the Whale, 11c/d, 2/14/1. Ti
12.) Baby Beluga, 12b, 2/13/0.
13.) Hermy the Crab, 12a/b, 2/10/1.
14.) Shiver Me Timbers, 10b, 2/12/2. First route on the North Wall. Located in an obvious large dihedral corner. Ti, T
D.) The East Wall
EDD's PLACE is found about 30-40 minutes hiking south along the rim of the East Wall from the Light Tower turnaround. There is no established trail here. The hike is gnarly although the climbs are worth it. You will pass three DOS Markers along the way, #'s 153, 154 and 155. The climbs are located about 150 feet past (south) #155. The wall gets early morning sun and is shady from about noon on. Plan ahead because there is no shade on the bluff top, it is very primal, and not a place to be caught in a storm. Routes are numbered from R to L when facing the sea. CAUTION Two routes rebolted (as of 02-27-01), two are not! BE CAREFUL!!
NOTICE: There is a well-established booby breeding colony a few hundred feet past Marker #153. If you happen to look over the edge and see a pile of large boulders at the base of the bluff wall, you are very near it. This place is known locally as 'Besowerd Cay'. Brown-footed Boobies are one of a kind and an endangered species. There are major efforts underway in the Cayman Islands to preserve them. Please move back from the rim along here and don't disturb these birds.
1.) Spiral Staircase, 10a, 2/12/2. Lots of variety at a moderate grade. Ti T
2.) Limestone Pirate, 11a, 2/12/2. The best of its grade on the island. Shares bottom anchors with #1. Ti
3.) unknown, approx 11b/c??. This route needs a first ascent!! Please let us know!
4.) Jumpin', 11d, 2/10/2. Follow a line of surprising holds. Big move at the ledge.
E & F.) The South Wall (wave wall, orange cave, love shack)
WAVE WALL. Walk about 10 minutes past the Orange Cave along the SE shore and come to a pile of boulders. Scramble through to Sentinel Rock (aka first Cay) and you will see Wave Wall approximately 200 yards further along the rugged shoreline. Continue scrambling eastward under a long overhang for and over dark, sharp rock to reach the climbs. This is a very aesthetic location, peppered with pockets and edges and a great place to begin your climbing experience on the island. Climbs range from 5.8 to 5.12, all terrific lines. Climbs are numbered from L to R as you face the wall. Watch the wave action and water level. It is easy to get caught out here.
1.) Get it Together, 12d, 2/6. Strenuous and sequency. Leftmost route.
2.) Pirates of Penance, 12a, 2/5. Very steep start which eases off. Ti
3.) Pirates of Pissants, 12d, 2/6. Power pocket pulling with variants to the crux.
4.) Conched Out, 10c, 2/7. Shares anchors with #5. Ti
5.) Frolickin' Frigates, 10c, 2/8. Neat roof and a column above the cave. Ti
**An unknown route begins here with three bolts that goes nowhere. Be Careful!
6.) Reef on This, 11a, 2/13. Two variants. Climb to a new set of anchors (middle belay station), 10d, rap with a 50 M rope. Climb above the new anchors to the top, 10c, rap with a 60 M rope. Ti
7.) Parrot Preserves on Rye, 11b, 2/11. Two variants. Climb to the new set of anchors (middle belay station), 11a, rap with a 50 M rope. Climb above the new anchors to the top, 5.8, rap with a 60 M rope. Ti
8.)
Calico Jack's Den, 10a, 2/8. Climb to the large cave (Jack's Den) on buckets, into and out
of its right side, and out the right roof with big exposure to an anchor set
above. Here Jeff Elison rounds the exposed roof (photo to right).*NOTE: Named "Shooting the curl" by mistake elsewhere!!
Ti
9.) Shootin' the Curl, 11a, 2/9. Fun bucket pulling until it squeezes down, then shoot over the curl (crux). *NOTE: Named "Hang Ten" by mistake elsewhere!! Ti
10.) New Wave, 10c, 2/8. A jug haul up into a small cave and a crux near the final bolt. Ti
11.) Old School, 5.8, 2/7. Yes, a very aesthetic, bolted 5.8! Great intro to climbing on Brac thanks to Jeff Elison. This is the rightmost route. Ti
THE ORANGE CAVE. Drive to the turnaround at the east end of South Side Road East. Walk along 'Beach Walk' eastwards for about 5 minutes and you can't miss it. Routes are numbered L to R facing the rock.
1.)
Feeding Frenzy, 10b, 2/10. Starts in a cave like alcove with first bolt
difficult to see. No titanium.
2.) Chum Buckets, 10c, 2/6. *First route on the island ('94). Big moves on big holds. Fun route. Rap out below the sharp teeth. Ti
3.) Going to Cayman with a Snorkel in My Jeans, 10c, 2/6. Silly first clip. Be very careful. Ti
4.) Orange Fantasea, 11b, 2/7. Starts in the cave and goes up and out the right side. Ti
5.) La Orangerie, 5.9, 2/5. Fun and short. Ti
LOVE
SHACK WALL. Located about 2.5 miles east of Ashton
Reid Road on South Side Road East, this is the home of hardmen. Hard
routes o
n smooth, overhanging rock. Routes are numbered from L to R facing
the rock.
CAUTION: Three routes are rebolted and three are not, HOWEVER ALL TOP ANCHORS have been replaced (01-01-02) !!
1.) Mild Virus, 12b, 2/6. Leftmost route.
2.) Leapin' Lizzards, 12a, 2/7. Ti
3.) Bats in Brac, 12 c/d, 2/7.
4.) Parrot Trooper, 12 b/c, 2/4. Ti
5.) Throwin' the Hula Girl, 12a, 2/7. Ti
6.) Bric-A-Brac Crack, 12a, 2/6. Shares anchors with #5. * Due for rebolting 03-02.
Copyright 2002-2005 JwHarper All Rights Reserved