CLIMBING ON CAYMAN BRAC - 1
Climbing on Brac 1
Here are some recommended climbs at each grade !
The
Bluff is composed of limestone, a highly prized climbing medium.
It is
steep
terrain, peppered with dissolution pockets, caves of many
sizes, stalactites and
flowstone. It has a 
generally smooth consistency where climbing is found,
although it is characteristically sharp and user unfriendly in most other
locations. While some of the Bluff's walls can be approached by land from
below, over half of the walls rise abruptly out of the churning Caribbean Sea
(climbing at these locations is even more exhilarating). Interestingly, the limestone found on Cayman Brac compares
favorably with other high quality limestone areas around the world including the
mogotes of CUBA, the
valleys of Southern France and popular areas of southeast Asia. (The
shot is of Greg Diamond on Dixon's Wall, Spot Bay).
Most
of the Bluff's faces are vertical to overhanging and one must be experienced to climb
here. The majority of Brac's climbs are graded 
from 5.10 to 5.12 by the
Yosemite Decimal System, denoting a moderately high to high degree of
difficulty. Easier climbing is hard to find, although a few routes have
been put up in the lower grades. While extremely rare on limestone, these
easier climbs range from 5.7 to 5.9 and are superb. They allow many
adventurers who are not climbing specialists to sample Brac's gourmet limestone.
(The shot is jwh on Shiver Me
Timbers, North Wall)
There are 4 principal locations of climbing on Cayman Brac as shown on the island map below. They are, beginning in clockwise fashion from Spot Bay and progressing around the northeast end of the island, the Spot Bay Areas (A), the North Wall (B), the East Wall (D) and the South Wall (E&F). The Spot Bay Areas are found on this page, whereas the other three are found on the next page Climbing on Cayman Brac 2. Some routes are tagged (' ') for identification purposes. Bolt counts are indicated as 2/12/2 (2 top anchors, 12 bolts on the route, 2 bottom anchors) or 2/12 (2 top anchors, 12 bolts on the route). The letter 'C' (on the topo) indicates the Northeast Point near the light towers at the east terminus of Major Donald Drive.
NOTE and WARNING: Some bolts on the island have experienced Stress Corrosion Cracking (aka ""). This is becoming an all-to-common, yet DANGEROUS phenomenon on sea cliff routes, one that seriously weakens the placements and causes accidents/injuries. A project to re-equip all routes with TITANIUM HANGERS called Tortugas from Ushba Mountain Works was begun in November, 2000. Over half of the existing routes have been re-equipped so far. Therefore, it is suggested that you climb only the re-bolted routes which are indicated by '' !! For more information on this project and interesting particulars on SCC, go to WWW.Ushba.com .
Remember, Ti = Titanium Hangers!!
A.) The Spot Bay Areas
Dixon's Wall
is a smooth section of bluff face in the village of Spot
Bay, essentially situated in the 'back yard' of Mr. 
Hindenberg "Berg"
Dixon. Ask permission first and you will be able to climb there. The
Dixon home is directly across from the Spot Bay Primary School, white frame with
black shutters. Can't find it, just ask anyone around. Please be
respectful of their property, leave no trace. Routes are numbered left to
right as you face the bluff.
1.) Bussy's Bulge, 11 c/d, bolt count 2/9. Begins under a small overhang. Clip first bolt (VERY HIGH) and find a bucket ladder. Ti
2.) Lizzard the Gizzard, 10d, bolt count
2/9. Pocket pulling and navigation of stalactites. Ti
3.) Dixon's Delight, 11a, bolt count 2/10. Where the fence ends. Pockets and edges. Great climb as seen in shots of Michelle Hurni cruising the climb at right, and Mike Auldridge (at left) negotiating the flowstone band near the top. Ti
4.) Out of Africa, 11d, bolt count 2/10. Flowstone curtains, mono's, CAUTION: first clip is high. Ti
5.) Buffalo Soldier, 12 a/b, bolt count 2/10. Rightmost route facing wall. Sustained, pinchy, crimpy crux. Ti
Neptune's Lair
is found at the end of Long Beach Walk, left of where
the shore intersects the bluff. Routes are numbered left to right facing 
the bluff. The first two routes are considerably left (under huge leaning
boulders) of the main 5 which
are easily seen on the cliff face. Will
be rebolted in 03-02.
1.) Medusa, 11 c/d, bolt count 2/4. Leftmost route, shares bolts and anchors with #2.
2.) Neptune's Lair, 11 c/d, bolt count 2/4.
3.) Conch-U-Brine, 11 c/d, bolt count 2/8.
4.) The Tempest, 11 c/d, bolt count 2/7.
5.) Poseidon, 11c, bolt count 2/9.
6.) Booby Eggs for Breakfast, 10d, bolt count 2/5. Misconceived trad route.
7.) Calypso, 11b, bolt count 2/7. Rightmost route.
Tsunami Wall ... ( PLEASE SEE THE NOTICE BELOW !! ) ... is further on past the huge leaning boulders that denote the end of Neptune's Lair. You can get there by scrambling to the base at low to medium tide levels, however most approach from the top and rap the routes, it's definitely easier access. Go to Peter's Cave Road which intersects Major Donald Drive approximately 5 miles east of Ashton Reid Road (Crossover Road). Take the Lighthouse Footpath (North Rim Trail) for about 1/2 mile until you break out of fairly dense foliage. Look for a rock cairn and two small twin palm trees on your left. Go to the bluff edge and you are there. Routes numbered L to R as you face the sea. These routes are on moderate quality rock. Not the best. NOT RE-BOLTED AS OF 03-01-02.
1.) Chia Pet, 5.9, 1/12/0.
2.) Tsunami, 11a, 2/14/1. T
3.) Found a Peanut, 12a, 2/15/1.
Copyright 2002-2005 JwHarper All Rights Reserved